Tuesday, August 26, 2014

Sj tee or the Faux Jumpsuit


As soon as I finished my anima I went back to my machine and sewn the SJ tee for a matching outfit, you know, the one we need for long haul travel. Or Sophie's TWO+PIECE SET+ACULAR.  After wearing for this pictures, I don't think I will be wearing both as an outfit. Looks too casual. Hrh, like always, offered his views about my new 'pyjamas'. 

The pattern shape is to be worn slouchy on the body and fitted on the arms, with a very loose neckline. 
Sloppy Josephine tee: source papercut

I decided to sew one size smaller (XS) than my papercut size (S)... Stretch fabric, how bad could it be? Fit on the cuff is a little tight to my taste but the rest it's perfect.


Just how I like my Tees- fitted at the shoulders and bust, loose on the stomach. Still deciding if its comfortable to wear with the cuffs like this or I need to remove them. Arms is my biggest body hang up.


Next one I will probably be sewing bigger for more slouchiness.


Searching online, many sewists found the loose neck too large. Mine neckline fits closely because of the contrasting fabric. I only had a small piece left so it is slightly gathered as I pulled it while sewing.


Papercut early patterns have been suggested by reviewers of running large.

I have only recently purchased SJ so I believe if their were running large in past, it has been adjusted and they are run true size. If you want to undersize, be aware!


I haven't hemmed my tee yet. I may or may not... 

Saturday, August 23, 2014

Sports Luxe Meets Rock Chic…

Skulls became a fashion icon in 1970s London counterculture, where Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood launched a series of skull-inspired punk gear, McQueen-inspired brought back skulls to the top of the trend list for Fall 2012. To me, skulls reminds me of A.H my all time favourite designer, as he tends to use skulls on most of his collections. His personal collection has an archive of almost 120 different skulls (my favourite is a knitted one) where he consider a symbol of life.


The skull fabric is super special because I bought it with Amity (She bought some for her too) at Goldhawk rd during her visit to the UK.

As the fabric is super soft and delicious to wear that I knew needed to be some type of sportswear. Since Papercut launched the Tri collection Anima was the perfect pattern for what I had in mind.


I made the trousers (pants) size small and lengthen the legs by 10 cm. 


The waistband and cuff fabric really elevates the Luxe factor of this make.


Do you like the curly hair appearing over the blog? its my natural, and once a year I have a month hiatus from straightening. Specially because I was going to have highlight the ends (done it a few weeks ago but there are a few makes with the old hair- you will notice it was getting reddish)

The contrasting fabric came from an old tank top I had for 14 years but never really worn much because it looked frumpy around the stomach but couldn't get rid of it because the fabric was so great. How I wished I had more of that fabric!


I choose to not sew the button hole/drawstring or sew on top of my elastic like the pattern instructions, so I didn't! Sewing rocks!


You think about all the details you want to wear , remove what you don't and make it happen! Magic!

One of the things I tend to get worried when wearing sportswear is to have a soggy bottom. Ha, this pattern gives me a nice booty! The wrinkles are being caused by my heavy hand in the pockets and how I move....


The fabric being so soft the trousers was hard to photograph but It has been forgiven due its immense comfort factor. I love comfortable clothes.

Have you notice the succession of trousers showing up on the blog? Trousers rules!

This make went almost uneventfully... well..  as I said almost!


Sparkly shoes totally goes with skulls, don't you think?


Thursday, August 21, 2014

Fabric Shops: Lisbon


Hey friends,

Nothing like shopping fabrics while on holiday. The hotspots I visited during my last trip.

Around the town centre: Rossio

Feira dos tecidos Rua Aurea, 292, 1100


This store is large and quite busy but the staff is very friendly. I bought 7 metres of different chiffons around 8 Euros a metre. Interesting prints and good variety of fabrics. Loved the jerseys and swimwear fabrics.  Good place to visit.



On the same street 3 or 4 shops down there is a smaller fabric shop I forgot to take their card and just a few metres ahead there is a newsagency with sewing and knitting magazines.

If you looking for furnishing fabrics try Vidal tecidos Rua Saraiva de Carvalho, n.º 356 B e D. They sell online. 

Noteworthy

Retrosaria Rua do Loreto, 61 - 2º Dto. Good for dressmakers and knitters. The shop has such a cute environment. Worth a little visit.

Source: Retrosaria

Menswear and Bridal, Casa Frazao.  Rua Augusta 259/265

Traveling tip: I hate getting taxis in Lisbon, taxi drivers always trying to overcharge you, grab your change as tip and normally they are not very friendly ( and hey!!!! I speak the language) 

From the airport to the centre, take the AERO BUS.  
It is comfortable and cheap. for £3,50 return. Links the airport to downtown Lisbon and Cais do Sodre. Most hotels are in route to this bus and I runs every 20 minutes from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.


Online Shopping:

Those were recommended but I haven't tried yet:

Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Ultimate Summer Trousers


Hello friends, 

Have you seen my latest Blogging network make? A colourful pair of capri trousers. I love dresses and skirts as they suit my long legs but I find myself always reaching my favourite pair of skinnies. 


A pattern Re run?  Yes!!! Sew Over it, Ultimate trousers. My second pair, of a few more planned as I'm got a feeling it will be perfect pattern for "one pattern one week". This time, I haven't lengthen it.


I should be making a denim version as I already have two flower power print. 


Trousers have a terrible reputation of being hard to fit. I disagree. I feel bodices offer a lot more fitting variations: bust, shoulder, neck, arm cycle, shoulders etc…Trousers troubles are crotch high and general size ( too tight/ too loose).  Fear of the unknown... 


To get it right, make sure you measure yourself properly and check against the pattern pieces. Make a muslin, use the darts to adjust the fit between waist and hip ratio....

I understitched the facing in place. I would love to try to make the facings into waistband.


 Supper happy with this cotton satin, with 3 % stretch fabric from Minerva Craft.


I find this perfect for making summer trousers. If your fabric has too much stretch you may get soggy bottom (opps couldn't resist the punt) 


And as you can see, I can move freely…. 


So comfortable. The internet has amazing resources on making trousers, Sunny  has compile a very helpful list. Go on, join me on trouser making revolution. 


Housekeeping: The winner of Capital Chic Pattern was Danka from the peppermint store.

Saturday, August 16, 2014

Pixelated wiksten dress


Pattern deeds: Wiksten Tank dress. A simple shape tank top, curved hem and tiny pocket. All sewn in french seams, finished with self made bias binding. Perfect for summer.

It's been a while since I shared a muslin shoot. I don't make many muslins these days (I prefer flat pattern alteration) since I was about to teach some lovely ladies how to sew this top, I wanted to test it. When a pattern is too simple, like no darts, it often offer fitting problems, specially on me. 

Ready for very unflattering shoots! Why 'muslin' always look like hospital gowns?

Clearly too big. Low armholes drives me crazy! Wrong size. I recut the pattern size S on the front and xs on the back, lowered the neckline, adjusted for slopped shoulders and kept the size M length. 

Tah Dah!


Before you think I was at risk of flashing, I'm wearing a nice pair of white shorts underneath. If it cover my summer shorts surely the length is appropriated for a summer dress cover up. 


When I make 'shorter' outfits, it is really clear to see my body proportions... My legs are a lot longer than my torso! 


Fit is fantastic! I love how relaxed this feel but still sits nicely on the shoulders.


Instead of a narrow hem, I did a rolled hem on the overlocker with a contrasting thread. I had only a metre of this fabric from Classic textile. The pocket is tiny pokadots quilting cotton from Brazil. 


This was perfect outfit to be worn  during July heatwave when I taught at FQR. Yes, I'm so late on my makes. Instagram followers have seen a peak on my feed and from my students. 



It's that too OTT matching my nails to fabric?